Joy of Chat
Its sods law that when I post a blog about having no work to do everything here goes mental and I barely have time to breathe, so I actually have had work to do for the last few weeks and I wanted to post this last week but just didn’t have the time.
One thing in Ethiopia that is very different to most of the rest of the world is the use of a plant called chat (or khat, quat or qat depending on how people feel). In Eastern Ethiopia, Somalia and Yemen it is a popular activity rarely seen outside of those areas because the plant only grows in very specific conditions.
Anyone that chews khat will say that the stuff grown around Harar is the best in the world. The next nearby town called Aweday happens to be the biggest khat market in the world and the stuff is exported around the world, most of it going to London where a big Somali population resides. Khat accounts for about ten percent of Ethiopia’s cash exports. Many people back home would be amused to find I left Manchester and accidently landed in one of the biggest drug cultivating areas of the world! It’s usually sold in bushels with the quality controlling the price and each bushel is enough for two or three people to enjoy, again depending on the quality.
There is a whole culture and tradition associated with chewing. It’s considered holy by most Muslims because it is referenced in ancient texts and that gives them an excuse to chew as much as they want. A khat chewing session is known as a Bircha and usually lasts most of the day, people can chew in smaller quantities or whilst working and the effects are less pronounced. A bircha includes a large group of people and often the location is varied from house to house, the bircha also involves shisha pipes, incense and a coffee ceremony usually preformed by women who are not chewing that day.
It takes several hours for the drug to take effect, during that time people take the soft leaves from branches and chew them, keeping them in the mouth for as long as possible, people that are really good chewers can keep chewing for several hours. Once all the soft leaves are gone people can start on the tougher leaves and if people get really desperate they can eat the branches themselves. The reason for this order is simple – Khat tastes awful, it’s like eating grass. However the softer leaves contain the most of the drug and do not taste as strong so they are the best place to start.
The effects of the drug are widely talked about and way overhyped. People here believe chat will cure everything from heart problems to digestion issues (the latter is probably true, you do end up eating a hell of a lot of fiber). What khat definitely contains is an amphetamine which makes people more alert, talkative, friendly and awake. Bircha sessions go on for so long because people slowly get high, chew more, talk absolute rubbish and lose track of time completely. Sometimes they go on for seven or eight hours before the chewing stops and people either go home or head to the bars.
In its defense it’s not a particularly destructive drug and although most people in and around Harar chew there are very few people addicted to it chewing in the street (the few that do are absolutely disgusting though). On the khat Wikipedia page there is a graph showing the potential harm of all the common recreational drugs and khat scores last, far below alcohol and tobacco, which doesn’t surprise me. I have never felt threatened by happy talkative people with green mouths.
There are some drawbacks though. Firstly that it is still a drug and therefore dangerous if abused, which is difficult to do, but still possible. Secondly that people chew at work. It may improve your concentration but I would prefer my bus and taxi drivers to be sober when doing their jobs. It also means that there is a cultural acceptance of people skipping work in the afternoons to chew. The college where I work is half empty in the afternoons because both the students and lecturers chew and sometimes don’t bother to come in.
It is however an intrinsic part of life in Eastern Ethiopia and living here you quickly see the positive and negative aspects of its use. I do agree with the assessment that it is a big development issue for Ethiopia; whilst people chew they are usually disinterested in working and improving their situation in life. It’s just another reason in a long list of why Ethiopia is an underdeveloping country.
